The Making of Tights/Stockings
The making of tights/stockings is a process, which has developed and been refined over time.
While the basic method of knitting threads and dying is broadly the same as in the Middle Ages. What has changed is the manufacture and material used in the making of tights/stockings. From being total hand made from natural materials tights/stockings are now largely mass produced and made from synthetic materials.
The raw materials that go into producing Tights/Pantyhose are generally made from a nylon-based blend of synthetic fibres. The nylon most commonly used—Nylon 6,6—is made from adipic acid an organic acid, and hexamethy diamine, an organic base, which are chemically combined to form a nylon salt. The salt must undergo polymerisation. In this process, different molecules are combined to form longer molecular chains. These chains result in a smooth, thick substance that is then cut into small shapes or pellets, before being spun into yarn. The nylon fibre’s size, strength, weight, elasticity, and lustre are determined during its preparation by controlling the number and type of filaments used. For example, lustre is produced by adding titanium dioxide (TiO2). The resulting fibre is highly elastic and retains its shape after repeated washings and stretching. Its resistance to wrinkles and creases, its durability, and the fact that it dries quickly make it a desirable fabric for busy women.
Today, filaments of another synthetic fibre, spandex, are frequently combined with nylon filaments to increase elasticity and achieve a snugger fit. More recently, other new fibres known as mircrofibers or microdeniers have been blended with nylon. A denier is a unit of measure that indicates the thickness of nylon yarn. The denier scale ranges from 7 to 80 denier, with smaller numbers indicating finer yarn and higher numbers denoting heavier yarn that will be used to make stronger fabrics. When blended with nylon, microdeniers enhance softness, hold colour more evenly, and provide a better fit.
Nylon Thread
Nylon yarn is made in a process known as melt spinning. First, the chemicals involved—adipic acid and hexamethylene diamine—must be plymerized to form a thick resin that is then cut into chips or pellets. These pellets are then heated and pressurized in an autoclave into a syrupsy solution. Next, the solution is extruded through a spinneret—a device that looks and works like a showerhead, with long strings of nylon solution coming out of the holes in the device. The number of holes depends on the type of yarn desired: one hole produces monofilament yarn, which is very thin and sheer; several holes produce multifilament yarn, which is denser and less sheer. As the fibers emerge from the spinneret, they are cooled by air and then stretched over rollers to stabilize the molecular chains and strengthen the fibers. The yarn is then wound on spools.
Knitting
Yarn is fed into a circular knitting machine, which converts it into a series of loops. Usually computer-controlled, the machine contains 300 to 420 needles and rotates at speeds up to 1,200 RPM; it takes about 90 seconds to knit a full-length stocking leg.
Seaming
Next, openings at the toes are seamed together, and two stocking legs are seamed together to form pantyhose. Sometimes they are seamed together with a crotch. Like the other steps in pantyhose manufacture, seaming is almost completely automated. Thesewn product then goes to a dye machine where it will be dyed to one of more than 100 different shades. The dye machine can color about 3,500 dozen pairs a day. Once dyed, the pantyhose are taken to a compartment dryer which dries them.
Boarding This next step, boarding, is sometimes done before the dyeing process, depending on the desired final product. Boarding is the process of placing the pantyhose over leg forms where they are steamed and heated to the desired shape. With less expensive hosiery, this step may be completely bypassed and the pantyhose packaged in their relaxed state.
Inspecting
Throughout the manufacturing process, quality checks are performed on the pantyhose. A statistical method is used for inspection.
